Setting:

The main, muted grey dining area has tables spaced well apart and partitioned by iris-etched glass panels. A sushi bar and teppanyaki station round out the seating offerings.

Food:

Traditional favourites dominate the menu, with tasting menus and set meals. Toro, salmon, yellowtail, red snapper and plump, sweet scallops are showcased on the imported sashimi plate. Popular hot and cold appetisers of grilled eggplant with a trio of miso paste toppings and boiled spinach with sesame sauce could be more carefully prepared though dobin mushi (clear chicken and seafood soup) is sprightly and full-bodied. A generous slab of grilled black cod slathered with sweet yuzu miso sauce is ideal for sharing. The pairing of chewy, springy udon noodle yakisoba with salted cod roe is nicely smoky, though a touch salty. End the meal with intense green tea ice cream with or without the gilding of sweetened red bean paste, or abekawa mochi, fragrant freshly toasted soya-flour-coated rice cakes served with rich brown sugar syrup.

Wine:

A decent selection, as befits a hotel restaurant.

Service:

Knowledgeable, helpful and very friendly staff, but sometimes short-handed due to the large crowd.

Price:

A good meal for two can be had for a bit over 2,000 baht, without wine.