Chiharu

9

8

8

7

9-10 The very best | 7-8 Excellent | 5-6 Very good | 3-4 Fair | 1-2 Poor

Setting:

Muted browns, greens and bespoke furniture mark this stylish two-storey eatery with a 14-seater sushi counter and sake bar.

Food:

The menu here is every bit as impressive as its designer décor, and includes the signature multi-course Chiharu kaiseki. The grilled anchovies — as appetiser — are wafer-light and crisp, accompanied by a creamy mayonnaise dip with sprinklings of egg roe. The assorted sashimi of sayori, toro, akagai and buri as well as sushi such as tamago with toppings of ikura, or caviar, reflect the deft skills of the chef. Unlike other Japanese restaurants, the grilled gindara here is salty rather than sweet, as the chef seems to favour soya over teriyaki sauce for this dish. For dessert, try the homemade jelly, an interesting mix of water chestnut and plum wine that delivers a surge of sweet and energising flavours.

Wine:

An extensive range of Japanese wines such as shochu and sake as well as other wines complement most items on the menu.

Service:

The friendly staff are knowledgeable about the food items but seem less so in the wine department.

Price:

À la carte sets cost $50 per head for lunch and $160 for dinner.

Signature dishes:

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